I sniffed so intensely the aromas of this lineup that I did not even notice the photographer. Schönborn Castle in the Rheingau region of Germany provided the perfect setting for an exciting tasting of top wines from the VDP Baden this evening. The winegrowers had brought almost 50 wines from their portfolio: riesling, Burgundian varieties but also rather unusual ones.
One example was the 2018 Chenin Blanc from Weingut Stigler The wine comes from the weathered volcanic soils of the Ihringer Winklerberg. Fresh acidity, lemon, apple, herbs. Phenolic touch on the palate gives additional structure and complements the creaminess.
One of my favourites of the evening was the Chardonnay Malterdingen “Alte Reben” 2018 from Weingut Bernhard Huber. Even in the warm 2018 vintage, Julian Huber produced an unbelievably elegant, multi-layered and profound Chardonnay. Cool, precise freshness, skilful use reduction, and fruit ripened to the point make these wines something special. Conceptually I am here in Burgundy – in Meursault. Simply fantastic.
The Eichberg Grauburgunder 2013 from Weingut Salwey was also exciting: elegantly matured, pear, apple skin, lime, quince and herbs. A subtle creaminess and a long finish.
Among the Pinot Noirs, I particularly liked the 2016 Kirchberg 2016 Großes Gewächs by Franz Keller, the 2016 Vorderer Winklerberg GG by Dr. Heger and the 2017 Eichberg GG by Weingut Stigler. Especially the Kirchberg fascinated me with its complexity, silky tannins and excellent length. The wine is dense, intense with cherry, blackberry, tobacco, minerals and oak spice. Top!
