Fantastic vertical of Lodovico at the Alpina Auslese 2022 in Munich last week. Lodovico is the top wine of Tenuta Biserno, named after its founder Lodovico Antinori. The vineyard, which covers around 49 ha, is located in the municipality of Bibbona in the Alta Maremma and is adjacent to Bolgheri to the north. The 2008, 2011, 2013, 2015 and 2016 vintages of the Cabernet Franc-dominated Bordeaux blend were available for tasting.
The 2008 – the second vintage produced – showed as the most linear wine of the vertical. Matured beautifully, with dried red fruits, cherry, cassis, some tomato shrub, graphite and tobacco. Fresh, with well-integrated yet gripping tannins. Certainly not the greatest Lodovico, but a first-class food companion.
The warm 2011 vintage was much more intense, with lots of dark fruit – blackberries, plums with dark chocolate. More impact, but also a bit rustic tannin, which seems a bit dry on the palate.
2013 is an intense charmer that skilfully combines juice and power. Densely packed and marked by cassis, blueberries, blackberries, Amarena cherries fresh herbs, pepper, tobacco and mocha. Fine-grained, tightly woven tannins. Very good length. A real hedonist.
The duo of the superb 2015 and 2016 vintages is brilliant. The 2015 shows the sweet fruit of the warm vintage, also wonderful herbal aromas and a well-defined acidity, which makes it my personal favourite. Lots of oak, which is perfectly integrated into the dark fruits. Blueberries, dark chocolate, tobacco, cedar, oriental spices. Fine tannins and a magnificent length.
The 2016 shows a somewhat more opulent style, characterised by dark, lavish fruit and spice as well. Blackberries, cherries, tobacco, coriander, cardamom, dark chocolate. Already a pleasure to drink – also because of the almost powdery tannins. Simply great.
