This 2020 Schwarzhofberger Kabinett 2020 “Alte Reben” from Egon Müller impressed me very much at this year’s presentation of the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer auction wines. Particularly in a drought year like 2020, the Scharzhofberg, with its underground waters, old vines and cooling influences, plays to its strengths.
To me, the Kabinett “Alte Reben” is almost the perfect expression of the Kabinett style. Fresh and elegant in its acidity, which perfectly balances the sweetness of the fruit. Very closed with lots of minerality, slate notes and a salty finish. Light bodied with just 8.5% alcohol. Underneath a layer of yeast, the fruit emerges with incredible clarity and precision: Lime, white peach with a hint of mango. Excellent length and intensity.
There is only one drawback – the price. Though this Kabinett will not be auctioned until 12 November, it is already clear that it will be no bargain. A 6-litre bottle of the 2018 Scharzhofberger Kabinett Alte Reben was auctioned for 5,247.90 euros per bottle. It was thus the most expensiveKabinett wine in the world. So let’s see what 2020 brings.