First-class Blaufränkisch/Lemberger pairing in our “Wine speaks German tasting” at the University of Geisenheim: The Blaufränkisch Mariental 2010 made by Ernst Triebaumer from Rust and the Fellbacher Lämmler 2013 made by Rainer Schnaitmann from Fellbach.
Both wines represent a part of my wine homelands – Burgenland, where my grandmother was born, and the Remstal, where we have been at home for more than 20 years. And both show impressively what the grape variety Blaufränkisch/Lemberg can deliver in terms of quality, even in inconsistent or cool vintages, if both vineyard and winemaking are first-class.
On the clay and marl soils of Fellbacher Lämmler, Rainer Schnaitmann bottled a delicate, well-rounded, almost “Pinotesque” aromatic Lemberger in the unstable 2013 vintage. Fresh but polished acidity, juicy with elegant cherry, blackberry and herbal notes. Fine tannin, very well integrated oak and excellent length.
Ernst Triebaumer’s Mariental from the cool 2010 vintage is much edgier, somewhat reserved, but just as fascinating. The limestone content of the soil is evident here. Very linear and acidic, blackberry, earth, leather, leaves, forest floor, herbs, firm tannin. It opens up with aeration and yet remains grippy and reserved.