Some wines make you pause. I had one of these moments with Clos St. Hune from Trimbach yesterday. For me, this wine is rightly one of the great monuments of Riesling culture.
The Clos St Hune is made from the 1.7-hectare heart of the magnificent Grand Cru site Rosacker in Hunawihr, Alsace. The vines, around 50-70 years old, grow on Muschelkalk (limestone), giving the wine freshness and concentration.
The focus of winemaking is on the fruit expression. The distinctness of this wine is captured through careful handling and slow fermentation in stainless steel before the long maturation process unveils the unbelievable complexity of this wine.
Thanks to Claudia’s generosity, we enjoyed the 2003 vintage, which was originally released before the 2002 due to the hot year. Even though the cork was not optimal, the wine was still shining in the glass.
A deep golden colour, many layers of dried fruit, mineral notes and an elegant, savoury character made my day: Candied orange and pineapple, dried apricot, honey, smoke, petrol, spices. Lush on the palate, yet held by a taut acidity that provides structure and direction to the wine. Long and persistent. Just wonderful.
